The channel's Brasília 1979 underwent a complete front suspension overhaul, documented in 8 episodes: complete dismantling, washing and blasting the parts, wash primer and PU paint, tie rod ends with grease fittings, anti-roll bar, stub axles with refurbished discs and calipers — and the series' most discussed modification, the Celta shock absorber on the front of the Brasília. The Brasília's front suspension uses the same design as air-cooled VWs (Fusca, Variant, TL): two beams with torsion leaf packs and suspension arms — so much of this is a useful reference for the whole air-cooled family. This page maps the series: what happens in each episode and links to the exact moment of each stage.
How to use this guide
Each stage summarizes the work and includes links ▶ straight to the moment in the video. This overhaul was carried out in a home garage on a car from 1979 — the solutions and modifications reflect Paulo's actual experience with this car; check the measurements on your vehicle before copying the work, especially the shock absorber modification.
Series contents
- The plan — and getting greasy
- Dismantled, washed, blasted and wash-primed
- PU paint on the parts
- Grease fittings on the tie rod ends and the struggle with the beam
- Stub axles, discs and calipers
- Anti-roll bar
- Steering reassembled and the shock absorber decision
- Final assembly — and back on the road!
Extras: The Celta shock absorber trick · Parts used in the overhaul · frequently asked questions
Stage 1 — The plan (and getting greasy)
The opening episode shows the condition of the suspension and the overhaul plan: dismantle everything, restore what can be saved, replace what needs replacing and return the front end to as-new condition. Dismantling starts in the first video — complete with over 40 years of grease and dirt.
- ▶ 0:01 — Plans for the front suspension overhaul
Stage 2 — Dismantled, washed, blasted and wash-primed
With everything off the car, the parts are washed, sandblasted and coated with wash primer — the base that helps the final paint adhere. The episode goes through the assembly part by part, showing the blasting results, including the brake master cylinder, which joined the overhaul along the way.
Stage 3 — PU paint on the parts
Time for the finish: the suspension parts receive PU paint. The same episode also shows the brake discs and the caliper rebuild kit — the Brasília 1979 has front disc brakes, and the calipers were dismantled and refurbished rather than replaced.
Stage 4 — Grease fittings on the tie rod ends and the struggle with the beam
The longest episode in the series (31 min) has a bit of everything: the tie rod ends receive M6 grease fittings (drilled and tapped directly into the end — the handy homemade modification that allows greasing without dismantling), the suspension beam resists disassembly, the torsion leaf packs get thoroughly cursed at and the suspension arms come off with hammer blows. This is also where the question running through the series first arises: refurbish the original shock absorber or fit a Celta shock absorber, as discussed on air-cooled VW forums?
- ▶ 2:19 — M6 grease fitting drilled and tapped into the tie rod end
- ▶ 3:10 — Lifting the assembly with a jack
Stage 5 — Stub axles, discs and calipers
Reassembly begins: the stub axles receive the bearings and the brake discs, and the rebuilt calipers go back into place. Bench work with the parts already painted — masking tape protects the finish during pressing and tightening.
- ▶ 0:01 — Starting stub axle assembly
- ▶ 10:25 — Protecting the paint during assembly
- ▶ 12:56 — Brake discs fitted to the stub axles
Stage 6 — Anti-roll bar
The "(attempted) installation" of the front anti-roll bar, in Paulo's own words — anyone who has wrestled with the clips and rubber bushes on a Fusca/Brasília bar knows why. It eventually goes in, but the episode shows the actual process, including adjusting the clips with pliers.
Stage 7 — Steering reassembled and the shock absorber decision
The tie rods go back in with an old hand's trick: count the turns when removing each tie rod end (in this case, 25 turns at one end) and repeat during assembly — this keeps the alignment close to its original setting until the car reaches the alignment shop. And the question from stage 4 is settled: in goes the Celta shock absorber. The episode compares both side by side — travel, length and mounting eyes: the Brasília mounting is 12 mm, while the Celta mounting eye is 10 mm — so a drill will be needed (the modification appears in stage 8).
- ▶ 0:01 — Reassembling the steering — counting the tie rod end turns
- ▶ 14:18 — Fine adjustments during assembly
Stage 8 — Final assembly — and back on the road!
The series wraps up with the modification of the Celta shock absorber mounting eye — drilled from 10 to 12 mm with two bits (11 and then 12, to be less aggressive) — and installation on the passenger side, with the washer arrangement explained in detail (smaller underneath, larger on top) and the bump stop kit bush cut to size. Next, the steering column adjustment — the first attempt forced the steering wheel downward and had to be redone — and the hubs with discs turning in the wheel. Finally, the Brasília runs, including a test drive without the doors.
The Celta shock absorber trick
The series' most frequently asked-about modification. A good original Brasília shock absorber is increasingly difficult (and expensive) to find — and the air-cooled VW community discovered that the Chevrolet Celta rear shock absorber has dimensions that work on the front of the Brasília. In the series, Paulo compares them side by side before deciding: travel is similar (the Celta is slightly more extended at rest) and the main difference is the mounting eye — the Brasília mounting is 12 mm and the Celta mounting eye is 10 mm. The modification: drill the mounting eye from 10 to 12 mm, first using an 11 bit and then a 12 to avoid forcing it (a drill press is ideal; with a handheld drill, take care to keep it straight). The installation is completed with the washer arrangement (smaller underneath, larger on top), the bump stop kit bush cut to ~30 mm — the space between the washers — and the shortened bump stop. Before copying this: measure your car — available travel, bolt diameter and space between the washers — because the suspension on cars aged 40+ years is rarely 100% identical from one example to the next.
Parts used in the overhaul
What was replaced or refurbished in the series (price buttons appear as we find good deals on Mercado Livre):
- Front shock absorber · original or a modified Celta rear shock
- Tie rod ends · fitted with M6 grease fittings in the series
- Front brake discs · the Brasília 79 has front discs
- Caliper rebuild kit · refurbish rather than replace
- Front wheel bearings · fitted to the stub axles
- Anti-roll bar rubber bushes and clips
- M6 grease fittings · ~R$ 1,50 each; drill and tap the tie rod end
- Brake master cylinder · added to the overhaul along the way
More Brasília content on the channel
The front suspension is just one of several jobs on the Brasília 1979:
- Rear brakes — complete overhaul in 3 videos: from dismantling and refurbishment through to final assembly, including sandblasting, nickel plating and painting.
- Rear ride height — spring plate adjustment in 2 videos: part 1 and part 2.
- Doors — complete restoration series for the 2 doors.
- And if front suspension interests you, also see the illustrated Honda Fit suspension guide — different architecture, same DIY spirit.
Frequently asked questions
Does this guide apply to the Fusca, Variant and TL?
Largely, yes. The Brasília's front suspension uses the same architecture as air-cooled VWs: two transverse beams with torsion leaf packs, suspension arms, shock absorbers and an anti-roll bar. Specific parts vary between models and years — check the dimensions before buying.
Does a Celta shock absorber really fit the Brasília?
That is what Paulo used in the series, following advice from air-cooled VW forums: the Celta rear shock absorber has similar travel to the original, but its mounting eye is 10 mm and the Brasília mounting is 12 mm — the eye needs drilling (11 and 12 bits), and washers, bush and bump stop need adjusting (stage 8). Measure your car before copying it — and remember this is a modification, not a catalog-listed part.
Is wheel alignment needed after the overhaul?
Yes. Counting the turns when removing the tie rod ends (stage 7) keeps the steering close to its original setting, but only helps you reach the alignment shop driving straight — it does not replace alignment.
How long does an overhaul like this take?
There are 8 episodes totaling just over 2h30 of video — in real life, weeks of weekend garage work, because washing, blasting and painting have their own drying times and logistics. This is not a one-Saturday job.